Remembering Nature Discovery Day

Posted on October 21, 2015 by barb

By Edie Parnum

For eight years I have been gardening for nature on my ¾-acre suburban property. My yard with its abundance of native plants teems with birds, butterflies, bees, beetles, moths, and other creatures both big and small. On August 29 my property abounded with people, too. I had invited nature-loving friends to enjoy my native plants and discover the creatures they support.

Edie explaining the wonders of pollination. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Cardinal Flower, Great Blue Lobelia, and Grass-leaved Goldenrod. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Some people came for just an hour, others stayed all day. Most participated in one of the three guided yard tours. The insect and pollinator walks were popular, too. Kids enjoyed their own nature and insect events. A sizable group drove to Barb Elliot’s nearby property and saw her pond and thriving native plant habitat. Some truly nature-crazed individuals stayed after dark for moth night.

Unquestionably, the native plants were a hit. All the species were labeled for easy identification. Many of my favorite plants (Short-toothed Mountainmint, Grass-leafed Goldenrod, Upland Ironweed, Cardinal Flower, Great Blue Lobelia, Garden Phlox, Trumpet Vine, Trumpet Honeysuckle, Large-leafed Aster, and Sneezeweed) were in bloom. Berries on woody plants (Nannyberry and Blackhaw Viburnums, Flowering and Silky Dogwoods, Winterberry Holly, Black Chokeberry) and a vine (Virginia Creeper) were ripe and ready for the fall migrants. (Click here for my complete yard plant list.)

Insects attracted notice and won new converts. Many admired the Monarch and Black Swallowtail caterpillars. The pollinators were active on the flowers. We saw native bees (European Honey bees, too), wasps, flies, beetles, day-flying moths, as well as Ruby-throated Hummingbirds spreading pollen while feeding on the nectar. Our entomologist, Dan Duran, PhD, identified a large blue-winged wasp (Scolia dubia) nectaring on mountainmint. This wasp, a parasite on the larvae of Japanese Beetles, is now a favorite of mine.

The kids admire a slug with Debbie Beer. Photo @ Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

The sharp-eyed kids on Debbie Beer’s nature walk saw a migrant American Redstart. By turning over rocks and logs, they discovered slugs and other creepy-crawlies. They also found spiders (the wolf spider was popular), beetles, and a cicada shell—goodies the adults missed.

Vince Smith gave us a geology lesson. My property is composed of Precambrian gneiss and schist, one of the oldest soils on the planet. Because it’s well-drained, the Tulip Poplar, Black Gum, and various oaks I’ve planted will develop deep roots. They should become massive trees and provide wildlife value for decades, perhaps centuries.

Hummiongbird Clearwing, a day-flying sphinx moth, on Garden Phlox. Photo © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Hummingbird Clearwing, a day-flying sphinx moth, on Garden Phlox. Photo © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Usually I merely write about my yard’s plants and animals and post photos on the Backyards for Nature blog. However, neither words nor pictures are enough. Seeing the natural beauty of my yard and discovering the creatures living there is more powerful.

Many people told me they were inspired to create their own backyard ecosystems. Others vowed a renewed commitment to enhance their developing habitats.

They said Nature Discovery Day was fun. I could see it on their smiling faces.

************************************ Special Note ********************************************** I will be selling my house in the spring of 2016. If you or anyone you know is interested in a property that’s alive with nature, contact me at edie@backyardsfornature.org

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See additional Nature Discovery Day photos below.

The Double-banded Scoliid Wasp, Scloia bicincta, parasitizes beetle larvae. Photo @ Link Davis.

The Double-banded Scoliid Wasp, Scolia bicincta, parasitizes beetle larvae. Photo @ Link Davis. Click to enlarge.

Debbie Beer and the kids explore nature in the yard. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Dan Duran shows a Monarch caterpillar. © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Monarch caterpillar © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Edie’s shade garden. © Bonnie Witmer. Click to enlarge.

Bumble bee on Garden Phlox. © Bonnie Witmer. Click to enlarge.

Barb Elliot describes her pond to visitors. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Eastern Redbud seed pods. © Bonnie Witmer. Click to enlarge.

Edie talks to guests attending Nature Discovery Day. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail. Photo © Bonnie Witmer. Click to enlarge.

Vince Smith explains the geology of the property. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Ailanthus Webworm, a day-flying moth. © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

He’s found something interesting. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Bee carrying the white pollen of Upland Ironweed. Photo © Edie Parnum. Click to enlarge.

Peck's Skipper. Phitii © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Peck’s Skipper. Photo © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Early instar of Black Swallowtail caterpillar. Photo © Tony Nastase. Click to enlarge.

Watching birds in the yard. Photo © Mallary Johnson. Click to enlarge.

Edie’s Garden—A Place to Discover Nature

Posted on July 19, 2015 by barb

By Barb Elliot

Wildlife is abundant in Edie’s yard. She finds birds, butterflies, moths, dragonflies, bugs,

Monarch newly emerged and ready for release. Raised from eggs laid on Edie’s Butterfly Milkweed. © Edie Parnum. Click to enlarge.

beetles, bees, wasps, flies, and more – creatures she loves – living among her native plants.

It wasn’t always this way. I saw the yard when Edie moved to this ¾-acre property in 2007. It was mostly turf grass. Except for a few native trees (Black Cherry, Red Maple, White Pine), no native plants grew here. Consequently, we observed few birds—just an occasional robin or starling—no other wildlife. She knew she could transform her lifeless property into a healthy habitat for wildlife by reducing the lawn and planting native plants. It could become a place where she could discover, learn, and enjoy nature.

To create a healthy ecosystem on her property she wanted to:

Plant a diversity and multitude of native plants
Offer conditions for birds and other creatures to thrive and reproduce
Provide year-round food sources, water, cover, and places to raise young for wildlife
Welcome lots of birds—certainly hummingbirds
Create a place of beauty where she could be immersed in nature
Learn the species of flora and fauna and how they interact and depend on each other
Leave a legacy of nature for future generations with long-lived trees and shrubs

Gradually, year by year, she has succeeded in creating this haven for wildlife. Eight years later I see thousands of native plants. They include perennials, grasses, vines, ferns, and woody plants, i.e. shrubs and trees. She planted densely, letting the plants touch each other as they do in the wild. Her canopy trees are young, but the oaks and others will be massively productive for wildlife for decades. Eastern Redbud, Flowering Dogwood, and Shadbush are already filling the understory. The mature shrubs like Spicebush, Elderberry, and several viburnum species are now luxuriant. At the ground

Red Milkweed Beetles eat plants in the milkweed family. The beetles are protected by the milkweed’s toxins and the black and red colors. © Edie Parnum. click to enlarge.

level perennials, vines, ferns, sedges, and grasses, are profuse. This diversity of plants offer nuts, seeds, berries, nectar, and pollen. Even the foliage of the native plants is indirectly a source of food. Insects eat the leaves and become food for birds and other creatures.

Birds now find what they need to live and thrive. They eat the fruits, nuts, seeds, and nectar produced by the yard’s native plants. Resident and migrating birds eat the insects hosted by her native plants. For example, Carolina

Chickadees can locate the 6, 000-plus caterpillars required to feed their young. Of course, no pesticides are ever used.

Edie has added other features for birds. She installed nest boxes for cavity-nesting House Wrens and Tree Swallows. She allows fallen leaves to lie in many places. Eastern Towhees and Brown Thrashers rummage in this leaf litter to find insects. Carolina Wrens

Trumpet Honeysuckle, a well-behaved vine with hummingbird-attracting red tubular flowers. © Edie Parnum. Click to enlarge.

often locate their insect delicacies in the brush pile. On a snag (dead tree) woodpeckers, including a Pileated Woodpecker, forage for insects in the decaying wood. A Trumpet Vine grows on this snag and attracts hummingbirds seeking nectar from its flowers. A bird bath and small pond offer birds water. The bird feeders supply a small proportion of food needed by some of the birds. Many, many birds (106 species) love this yard.

Her meadow, in my opinion, is the crown jewel of her property. It is chock full of colorful perennials and grasses. Birds forage for seeds in late summer, fall, and winter. Numerous butterflies (30 species so far), bees, beetles, and other pollinators are active on flowers

Edie’s Meadow in late summer. Flowers attract butterflies, moths, and other insect pollinators. © Edie Parnum. Click to enlarge.

blooming from April through October. Even at night the meadow is alive with moths, beetles, and other insects and spiders. Aiming a flashlight into the dense meadow plants, she can see the tiny, shining eyes of moths and other insects. Bumble bees, too, sleep on the flower heads, resting for the next day’s work.

Edie has created a paradise for herself as well as the creatures that call her yard home. With binoculars and camera, she frequently takes nature walks around the yard. The birds, whether eating, preening, feeding young, are always interesting. Mating foxes are less expected. Mating Garter Snakes, too. Even

Spicebush Swallowtail caterpillar on Sassafras, one of its host plants.© Edie Parnum. Click to enlarge.

better, she loves to discover a caterpillar eating leaves. When she locates other tiny creatures—bees, beetles, wasps, and others—she takes their photos. At night she uses lights to attract moths. She photographs these creatures, too.

Using the photos of insects, she can usually make identifications and then figure out their role in this ecosystem. What plants do they depend on? What plants depend on them? What do they eat? Who eats them? Are they parasites? Predators?

The possibilities for discovery are endless. Mostly, she revels in success of the healthy ecosystem she has created.

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Nature Discovery Day, August 29, 2015

Edie enjoys showing her garden with its native plants, birds, butterflies, moths and other creatures to nature-loving friends. On August 29th she will host Nature Discovery Day. Throughout the day you can explore her yard, discover nature in action, and learn about habitat gardening. Guided walks for children and adults will be offered, too. In the evening it’ll be Moth Night.

This event will be for a limited audience by invitation only. She’s inviting Backyards for Nature blog readers and their interested family and friends. Save the date and watch for an invitation coming to you in late July or early August.

Bats in Peril

Posted on March 10, 2015 by barb

By Barb Elliot

OK. I’ll confess. I love bats! Fifteen years ago my father and I built a bat house for them. Each spring, I watch expectantly for “my” bats to return to their bat house. And, every spring they have come back. I always breathe a sigh of relief.

Barb’s pole-mounted rocket-style bat box awaits the spring return of “her” bats. © Barb Elliot. Click to enlarge.

Through summer and early fall I watch them at dusk. I thrill to see two or three flying in large circles over my yard. Watching them swerve and swoop, I marvel as they deftly capture night-flying insects. Using echolocation — emitting sound waves that bounce off objects and echo back to them — they successfully locate, catch and consume mosquitoes, moths, and beetles that fly in the dark. Each night they eat half their body weight (lactating females eat 100% their body weight) in insects– as many as 1,000 insects an hour! Mosquitoes are not a problem in my yard. By eating insect pests, bats offer their services to farmers, too. Farmers can use fewer pesticides and save money. Consequently, our food costs are lower, and an added benefit, pesticides are kept off our food and out of the environment.

Cluster_of_little_brown_bats_myotis_lucifugus Wikimedia Commons photo by Tim Krynak USFWS

Cluster of hibernating Little Brown Bats. Wikimedia Commons image by Tim Krynak, USFWS.

Nine species of bats, all insect-eaters, live in Pennsylvania. Three species (Hoary, Red, and Silver-haired) migrate south in the fall, to find insects. The other six species, including “my” Big Brown Bats, head to caves or mines (known as hibernacula) where they hibernate until insects become plentiful again in the spring. In the cold, constant temperature of a hibernaculum the bats roost huddled together in groups. They enter a state of torpor, lowering their body temperatures (from 108 degrees to 39 – 59 degrees F). Their heart rates slow (from 1000 beats per minute to 10 bpm) to conserve energy and they live off their fat stores. Every three weeks, the bats rouse themselves. Their body temperatures and heart rates rise briefly to normal summer rates before returning to their state of torpor.

Hibernating bats are dying in droves. In 2006, a cold-loving fungus from Europe

Little Brown Bat displaying White-nose Syndrome. Wikimedia Commons. Image by Marvin Moriarty USFWS.

(Pseudogymnoascus destructans) was found in bats in four caverns in upstate New York. This fungus, which thrives in the cold of caves and mines, causes a disease in bats known as White-nose Syndrome (WNS). WNS is fatal and has decimated bat populations. It damages bats’ muscles, connective tissues, and skin, and causes them to rouse more frequently (every 5 days vs. every 3 weeks). Their fat stores are depleted during the winter, Death occurs well before spring.

White-nose syndrome has spread rapidly. Confirmed in PA in winter 2008-2009, it is now in 25 states and 5 Canadian provinces. The disease has killed over 95% of bats at every wintering site. (See chart for the heartbreaking declines of our PA bats.) PA has lost

Losses at 34 hibernacula are representative of PA statewide bat species declines. Click to enlarge.

Losses at 34 hibernacula are representative of PA statewide bat species losses. Click to enlarge.

more bats than any other state. Hibernacula that previously held tens of thousands of bats now hold just a few hundred or fewer. Overall, PA has lost over 99% of its total bat population because the largest die-off has been in Little Brown Bats, formerly the most populous PA species.

WNS has killed over 5.7 million bats — the worst disease to affect North American wildlife

March, 2015 map from White-noseSyndrome.org showing spread of WNS to states and provinces. Click to open in separate window.

in centuries. It continues its deadly march. Scientists at many laboratories and federal and state agencies are investigating ways to control WNS and protect bats. If a solution is found, it could still take hundreds of years for some bat species to return to pre-WNS levels. After all, most bat species have just one or two pups a year.

Red Bat with 3 pups, though most bat species have just 1 or 2 pups a year. Wikimedia Commons image by Josh Henderson. Click to enlarge.

WNS is a daunting disease, but there are things you can do to help bats:

Build a bat house for roosting bats. Bats are particular about their roosts, so do a little research to understand their housing needs and location preferences. See Install a Bat House for detailed guidelines.
Contribute toward WNS research by donating to Bat Conservation International (BCI) and consider becoming a member of BCI.
Participate in the Appalachian Bat Count project in PA by counting bats at a maternity colony in the summer. These counts are especially important because of WNS.
If a bat strays into your home, don’t harm or try to catch it. Simply open a door or windows. After it gets its bearings, the bat should leave within 10 or 15 minutes.
If a colony of bats moves into your attic, take measures to exclude the bats only after mid-July when pups are able to fly. If possible, provide an alternate roost as a new home for the colony. See Bats in Buildings: A Guide to Safe and Humane Exclusions or Penn State Extension’s bat exclusion and alternate roost information.
Learn more about bats and White-nose Syndrome and share your knowledge with family, friends, and neighbors.

This spring, I’ll be waiting and watching for “my bats” to return to my bat house. I hope they’ll have survived White-nose Syndrome once again. Look for bats in your

A healthy hibernating Big Brown Bat., Wikimedia Commons Image by Ann Froschauer, USFWS. Click to enlarge.

neighborhood, too. Please join me as an advocate for these often misunderstood, but extremely valuable creatures.

Resources:

Bat Conservation International

White-NoseSyndrome.org

White-nose syndrome in Pa. bats could lead to endangered status, affect jobs. Rick Wills, Pittsburgh TribLive, December 15, 2012

Special thanks to Dan Mummert, Wildlife Diversity Biologist, Pennsylvania Game Commission, Southeast Region, for sharing his expertise and WNS data

Want More Native Plants? Learn to Transplant

Posted on October 22, 2014 by barb

By Edie Parnum

You read it repeatedly on this blog—plant more native plants. Plant lots of them. Too expensive, you say. That’s true when you purchase them at nurseries or native plant sales. I know where you can get native plants for free—yes, really! They are already in your own backyard.

Local native plants are adapted to our soil and climate, so they reproduce abundantly. Look carefully at the young plants in your garden. You’ll find multiples of many of your favorite native plants. Resist pulling out these volunteers and throwing them away. They are not weeds. Keep them growing by transplanting them to new locations.

A 5″ Witch Hazel is flagged and ready to transplant. © Edie Parnum

Take a tour around your yard. Locate the native plants that have popped up voluntarily, but haphazardly. These young woody saplings and perennials are smaller versions of plants you already know and love. Many, you recall, are particularly favored by birds, butterflies, and other creatures. Others are your personal favorites—they are so beautiful! You already know their ultimate size, shape, and color and their needs for sun, shade, dry, or moist conditions. These native plant treasures can be saved by moving them to new locations.

Now look for places where you can incorporate these volunteer trees, shrubs, perennials, ferns, vines, and groundcovers into your landscape. Where can you grow another tree? How about several trees? Shrubs can be added around the base of isolated trees. Can you install or expand a garden bed? What about removing some non-native plants or invasives? Keep in mind native plants prefer to touch each other, not be isolated. Spots of bare ground should be filled in with native groundcovers. And, surely, your lawn can be reduced. Aim to cover virtually all open areas with native plants.

Be brave. Dare to transplant—even if you’ve never done it before. Native plants are resilient and determined to grow. Spring or fall, here’s how to transplant.

Directions for transplanting tree or shrub saplings

Locate a small sapling, preferably shorter than 15”, to transplant. If the soil is dry around the plant, water it well.
Before you dig out this woody plant, select the location where you want it to grow and dig a hole there. This hole should be no deeper than the expected depth of the transplant’s roots and about twice as wide.
To dig out the transplant, estimate the size of the root system (usually as wide as the sapling’s canopy). Dig deeply around the plant and avoid severing the tap root. When you lift the sapling out of the ground, it should have plenty of roots and soil attached.
Carefully lay the sapling with its root system on a piece of newspaper or plastic and carry it to the new location.
Place the plant into the pre-dug hole. Hold the plant upright with the top of the root system ½” above the height of the ground. Fill in around the roots with the soil that was removed from the hole. Do not add fertilizer, topsoil, or other amendments. Press the soil down with your hands, but do not stomp with your feet.
Spread compost and leaf litter on top.
The sapling of this 10-foot White Pine was 6 inches tall when transplanted five years ago.
Water well. Unless it rains, water the transplant every week for several months—longer if the season is dry. In fall, water until the ground freezes.
Some established shrubs such as viburnums send out horizontal roots where new plants can emerge. These baby shrubs can be transplanted, too. Follow the directions for free-standing saplings. However, before digging the plant out of the ground, find and sever the lateral root growing out from the mother plant.
Small woody transplants, once established, grow quickly. After a few years they will be as big as much larger nursery-grown trees and shrubs.

Personally, I have successfully transplanted Red Maple, Bottlebrush Buckeye, Redbud, Eastern Red Cedar, Tulip Tree, Eastern White Pine, Black Cherry, Tulip Tree, and Sassafras. I’ve also moved several native species of dogwoods, hollies, oaks, and viburnums. Most other native woody plants will transplant well, too. You can also relocate woody vines like Virginia Creeper, Trumpet Vine, and Virgin’s Bower.

Directions for transplanting perennials

Perennials and other non-woody plants often produce volunteer seedlings. These young plants resemble their parents and can be readily differentiated from your yard’s common weeds. Frequently I see Nodding Onion, Anise Hyssop, Amsonia, Wild Columbine, Wild Geranium, Cardinal Flower, Great Blue Lobelia, False Sunflower, Golden Ragwort, New York Ironweed, Golden Alexander—all valuable plants begging to be saved. I often find my cherished native asters, goldenrods, and phloxes as seedlings, too.
You can dig out these and many other seedlings and transplant them elsewhere. Follow the above directions for transplanting shrubs and trees.
Lance-leafed Goldenrod and other goldenrods are easy to transplant and attract many pollinators, including Ailanthus Webworm Moth. © Edie Parnum
Some perennials spread by underground runners. The lateral roots of Mountain Mint, Bee Balm, Monarda, Wild Bergamot, Obedient Plant, Ostrich Fern, and Mistflower produce growth to dig out for new plants.
Divide older perennials. Look for plants that are oversized and have lost vigor. These can and should be divided. Push your spade deeply into the ground at several places around the perimeter of the large plant. Lift it up out of the ground with most of the root system intact. Thrust your shovel into the middle of the plant and separate it into two clumps. If the root system is dense, you can use two back-to-back garden forks to pry it apart. Further subdivide these clumps to yield four or more plants.
As with woody plants, plant perennials and ferns ½ inch higher than the ground. Be sure to keep them watered until they are established. If planting late in the fall, mulch the plants to prevent them from heaving out of the ground during light frosts.

With the right transplanting tool, the work is not hard nor especially time consuming. You

Tools for transplanting: watering can, pruners, bulb trowel (extra leverage for digging seedlings) and transplant shovel (see text). © Edie Parnum

certainly can dig out a plant satisfactorily with an ordinary shovel. However, I prefer using my transplant shovel. With its narrow blade I can make precise cuts around my target plant but avoid injuring desirable plants nearby. It has a wide ledge for stomping with my foot and good leverage. Thus, I’m able to do most of my transplant operations standing up. No need to kneel or squat uncomfortably.

You can’t create the landscape of your dreams all at once. Each spring and fall, transplant as many young plants as you can. Ever increasingly, your property will include all the layers found in nature: groundcovers, perennials and ferns, shrubs, understory trees, and canopy trees. This dense, layered landscape will develop into a rich habitat alive with insect and animal biodiversity.

A layered landscape,including Virginia Creeper as a ground cover, asters, Fringe Tree (an understory tree), and a large Common Hackberry tree.

A layered landscape in fall, including Virginia Creeper and violets as ground covers, asters, amsonia hubrectii, Solomon’s Seal in its fall yellow color in the background, Fringe Tree (understory tree on right), and a large Common Hackberry tree (on left).

Revel in the fecundity of your garden. Each of your native plants is a gift to nature. Each with its leaves, flowers, seeds—in fact every part of the plant—contributes exuberantly to the web of life. Save them one by one to plant elsewhere in your yard. Give them away, too. Your garden will be a native plant nursery.

New Books on Gardening for Nature

Posted on September 29, 2014 by barb

Reviews by Edie Parnum

Want to become a better steward of nature on your land? These two books will inspire and guide you. Doug Tallamy’s popular book, Bringing Nature Home: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants, taught us to love native plants for the leaf-eating insects they host. Tallamy has now teamed up with landscape architect Rick Darke on a new book that helps us create aesthetically pleasing landscapes for our native creatures. Heather Holm’s book teaches us to garden for insect pollinators and appreciate the ecosystem roles they play. We can help the environment by what we plant in our yards. These books tell us how.

The Living Landscape: Designing for Beauty and Diversity in the Home Garden by Rick Darke and Doug Tallamy

This book is beautiful—so beautiful you can display it on your coffee table. The photographs show landscapes, combinations of native plants, and the creatures who live there. These images inspire us to create esthetically pleasing wildlife habitats that are alive with biodiversity.
The pictures and text explain how to design for beauty using native plants. Instead of planting them haphazardly, we learn to position and combine natives to create an alluring garden.
The authors teach us to imitate natural habitats by planting in layers: ground, herbaceous, shrub, understory, and canopy.
Instead of photos of individual plants, the book illustrates native plants as part of the landscape and showcases the birds, butterflies, and other creatures living there.
Edie’s meadow landscape, September, 2014. © Edie Parnum.
A practical book, low maintenance gardening is emphasized. It recommends pleasing combinations of plants that don’t out-compete each other or require excessive weeding. We learn to anticipate changes in our landscapes over time, especially when planting trees and shrubs.
The plant lists, organized by geographical area, are superbly designed to help us make plant selections. Symbols concisely indicate the ecological functions for each plant, e.g., nest sites, pollen, nectar, seasonal foods for birds, and food for caterpillars. Other symbols represent landscape functions such as seasonal flowering, fall foliage, fragrance, or groundcover.
The plant lists also specify the ecological benefits to humans. Not normally emphasized, these paybacks include carbon sequestration, shading and cooling, watershed protection, moderation of extreme weather, and air filtration.

Pollinators of Native Plants: Attract, Preserve and Identify Pollinators and Beneficial Insects with Native Plants by Heather Holm

Like flowers? You surely love pollinators, too! You can’t have one without the other. Plus, flowers and their pollinators create seeds, fruits, and nuts—actually a third of the food we eat. Of course, animals of all kinds require these food products, too.
Butterflies, the most charismatic of the insects attracted to flowers, already have fans. Now, with this book, we also learn to value pollinating bees, wasps, moths, flies, and beetles—really!
The bulk of the book describes the best pollinator-attracting plants and the interactions between their flowers and the pollinating insects.
Gray Hairstreak, a pollinator of Short-toothed Mountain Mint, a Backyards for Nature Prime Plant. © Edie Parnum
Insect pollinators are fascinating. We can easily observe and identify them by watching the book’s featured flowers and examining their insect visitors. The excellent photographs in the book help us identify these bees, flies, and other insects. Then we can observe each insect’s strategy as it probes for nectar and/or collects pollen. We may see insect interactions like predation, copulation, and parasitization, too.
Bumble Bee pollinating Obedient Plant. © Edie Parnum
Using this book we home gardeners can select pollinator-attracting plants for the various growing conditions on our properties.
By planting Holm’s recommended pollinator plants and observing pollination in action, we will revel in the flourishing ecosystem we’ve created.

I highly recommend both of these books. They will help you beautify your garden and increase its ecological value for all the creatures who inhabit it.

Looking for Nests

Posted on July 3, 2014 by barb

By Edie Parnum

Nests are hard to find. Sure, it’s easy to see the House Wrens and Tree Swallows come and go from the nest boxes I have provided. Most songbirds, however, build and raise

A House Wren about to feed a caterpillar to its young in Edie’s backyard. Photo by Edie Parnum.

their young in well-concealed cup nests. Paying particular attention to the dense areas, I examine my trees and shrubs. I look, too, for lumps in the crotches of trees. I strain to see high in the canopy. The breeding season is well underway, but I’ve found only two cup nests on my ¾-acre property.

Early this spring a female Robin built a nest out of grass, sticks, and mud in a dense holly below my raised deck. I could look down and see her settled in the nest. Once I glimpsed four pale aqua eggs. Here was an opportunity to learn more about the nesting behaviors of the American Robin. From a comfortable but hidden vantage, I planned to observe the mother robin incubate her eggs, then watch both parents feed the nestlings. Not so. One day the female and the eggs were gone.

Plenty of predators prowl around my yard. A ravenous jay, crow, raccoon, possum, snake, or even chipmunk might have devoured the eggs and destroyed the nest. Last year Gray Catbirds screeched hysterically when a Blue Jay ate their eggs.

Besides the Robin’s, a Mourning Dove’s nest was high in my in my crabapple tree this spring. While my nature-loving arborist was removing winter-damaged limbs, he exposed a flimsy nest with two eggs in the crevice of a broken branch. He left it undisturbed. From the ground I could glimpse a Mourning Dove’s eye peering at me from above the

My arborist found this Mourning Dove nest while removing winter-damaged limbs. Photo by Mark Masciangelo.

limb. Again, I hoped to watch and study the birds’ breeding routine. After a few days of viewing the brooding dove, however, I could no longer see the bird nor any activity. Why did the nest fail? Perhaps the arborist’s intrusive activity caused delayed nest abandonment. Of course, a predator could easily have seen and raided the exposed nest. Thankfully, both the doves and robins will nest again—successfully, I hope.

Besides searching for nests, I’m also watching for signs of breeding. Catbirds, cardinals, house finches, song sparrows must be breeding here. Pairs of birds, singing loudly and persistently, cavort in my yard. Some birds carry nest material. Others have insects in their beaks. When they don’t eat the food, they’re carrying it to a nest—a sure sign of breeding. I hope to discover the nest where nestlings are being fed.

Though I have not seen it, I believe a pair of Brown Thrashers has a nest on my property. Most suburban yards don’t host Brown Thrashers, especially not a breeding pair. Thrashers like dense shrubbery, not the typical manicured landscape. With their bills they sweep and probe the ground searching for insects and spiders in last year’s fallen leaves. I was plenty pleased when a Brown Thrasher spent the winter in my yard. This reddish-brown, jay-sized bird with a streaked belly stayed silent and sheltered in the arborvitae and other dense vegetation. Every few days I saw it stray from its hiding place and feed on exposed ground. I assumed it would move on in the spring to breed elsewhere.

A Brown Thrasher feeds on the ground. Photo by Howard Eskin. Click to enlarge.

In mid-May, a Brown Thrasher, possibly the same bird, sang vociferously from the treetops. Its loud doubled phrases are different from its close relative, the smaller Northern Mockingbird. The purpose of the song is to attract a mate and defend a breeding territory. Even so, I assumed my wintering bird (or new arrival) was just practicing and would not stay to breed here. When the singing stopped a week later, I concluded it had departed.

To my surprise in late May and June I’ve occasionally glimpsed a soundless thrasher. Males and females are indistinguishable, but sporadically I have seen two birds together. Could a pair be breeding after all? The thicket of forsythia and blackberries at the back of my property is perfect for thrashers. Every few days I spend a few minutes peering into the undergrowth and listening. Once I saw it deep, deep inside the dense vegetation. On another occasion I discerned a barely audible whisper version of the thrasher song. According to my research, thrashers are mostly silent during the nesting season but sing softly in the vicinity of a nest.

Surely thrashers have a nest in my shrubbery. It is probably just a few feet off the ground, but hidden in the impenetrable thicket. My chances of discovering it are slim. Because they consider me a potential predator, the birds probably engage in evasive behavior to lead me astray. Undeterred, I keep looking and listening.

I need a vigilant, alert ornithology student to help find the nest. A sharp-eyed young person could spot the bug in the thrasher’s beak. Together we could find the nest. See the baby birds. Watch their parents put insects into gaping mouths. Observe the naked babies grow pinfeathers followed by juvenile feathers. We would thrill to witness them fledge and take flight into the world of my backyard. Alas, without my student, I evidently can’t be a voyeur of birds’ private lives.

By searching for nests, I’ve learned more about helping breeding birds succeed. I’ll plant more dense shrubs where birds can build and protect their nests. These shrubs will be insect-hosting natives instead of the non-native forsythia. Already I do not tidy up the thickets and corners of the yard. Thrashers and other ground-feeding birds require the leaf litter to feed themselves and their offspring. Next fall I’ll welcome leaves into the perennial beds, too. And, most important, I’ll grow more native plants where birds can find plentiful insects to feed their young.

In some ways I’m unable to help and must trust the birds’ own survival abilities. Predators abound, but the birds possess skills to protect their nests, eggs, and nestlings. Vigilant and ingenious, they know how to keep their nest locations secret. Thankfully, when a nest fails, most are able to produce a second brood.

It’s summer now, and I see lots of baby birds around the yard. The nests are somewhere nearby. Birds are breeding here successfully.

Let’s Celebrate National Pollinator Week! June 16 – June 22, 2014

Posted on June 18, 2014 by barb

By Barb Elliot

Pollinator Week* is a good time to watch, celebrate, and be thankful for pollinators. After all, they are responsible for every third bite of our food and drink. They pollinate crops, trees, shrubs, and flowers in our landscapes for free. I’m having fun observing pollinators

Native Bee on Sundrops (Oenothera fruticosa). Barb’s Yard 6/16/2014. © Barb Elliot

as flowers bloom on my native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Native bees, beetles, wasps, and butterflies are busy during the day, and after dark I’m finding moths and other nighttime insects visiting my flowers. Pollinator Week is a good time to take a walk in your yard, look for flowers with pollinators, and watch them as they work.

It’s also a great time to do something for pollinators! Facing multiple threats, including habitat loss, pesticides, and diseases, they certainly need our help. The simplest and best

Moth on Common Milkweed (Aesclepias syriaca). Barb’s yard, 6/15/2014. © Barb Elliot

thing we can do to help is add some pollinator-friendly native flowers to your landscape – even if it’s just a few plants in a pot. Do even more by taking the Pollinator Pledge through The Xerces Society Bring Back the Pollinators program.

For a list of pollinator-friendly plants and more information about pollinators, reasons for pollinator declines, and other simple actions you can take, see my March 24, 2014 post Pollinators Need Our Help!

(*Established in 2007 by the Pollinator Partnership, Pollinator Week “has grown exponentially in scope each year with this year June 16-22 being designated by U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack and 44 governors as a week to celebrate and protect the nation’s pollinating animals.”)

Prime Plants for Nature: Backyards for Nature 2014 Native Plant Awards

Posted on May 5, 2014 by barb

By Edie Parnum

Each year we select two native plants with exceptional ability to support wildlife. These plants will contribute significantly to the web of life in your yard. They host insects, offer nectar and pollen, and produce fruits, seeds, or nuts. Birds, butterflies, and other insects and animals will feed and prosper. Most provide shelter and nesting places, too. Our selections, all native to southeastern Pennsylvania, are easy to grow and readily available at native plant nurseries or native plant sales. Our Prime Plants make attractive additions to your landscape. We offer awards in two categories: Trees and Shrubs and Perennials.

Our selections for the 2014 Prime Plants for Nature Awards are:

Eastern Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana

Wildlife Value: This small evergreen tree is a powerhouse for nature. Yellow-rumped

Cedar Waxwing Eating Cedar Cones. Photo © Howard Eskin.

Warbler, Eastern Bluebird, and Northern Mockingbird are among the 54 species of birds that eat its long-persisting berry-like cones during the cold months. Cedar Waxwings areso-named because they’re fond of cedar cones. The foliage hosts the Juniper Hairstreak butterfly, a vulnerable species in Pennsylvania, and several species of moths such as the Curve-lined Angle. Song Sparrows and other

Juniper Hairstreak. Photo courtesy of and © Scott Pippen.

Juniper Hairstreak. Photo courtesy of Jeffrey Pippen. Click to enlarge.

birds use the dense foliage for nesting places and shelter. Don’t be tempted to buy the similar-looking Leyland Cypress, a non-native that offers little for wildlife.

Growing Conditions: The Eastern Red Cedar tolerates a wide variety of soils and dry to moist growing conditions. It prefers a sunny spot. These trees are either male or female. Only the female trees produce fruits, but you’ll also need a male for pollination.

Screech Owl in Barb's Eastern Red Cedar. Photo © Barb Elliot. Click to enlarge.

By planting at least three of these trees, you will enhance their wildlife value. A row of cedars will provide dense shelter for birds. From the human perspective, the cedars can offer privacy. If planted on the north side of your house, they will create a windscreen.

Appearance: This evergreen has a pleasing conical shape. It grows at a moderate rate (1-2 feet per year) and reaches 15-40 feet at maturity.

Eastern Red Cedar Trees.

Short-toothed Mountain Mint, Pycnanthemum muticum

Wildlife Value: This perennial is a magnet for pollinators. Butterflies, bees, wasps, and flies are attracted to the copious nectar and pollen this lovely plant produces. Because it

Red-banded Haristreeak nectaring on Mountain Mint. Photo © Edie parnum. Click to enlarge.

flowers over a long period of time, it may host thousands of visits by pollinators each season. With this plant in your yard, you can introduce children to pollination and teach them not to be afraid of bees and wasps.

Growing Conditions: Mountain Mint is a tough plant and will grow well in dry to moist soil in full to part-sun. Like other members of the mint family, it spreads but can easily be controlled, especially early in the growing season. It’s easy to transplant and share with other native plant gardeners. This perennial is deer-resistant, too.

Appearance: Mountain Mint grows to about 3-feet tall. Although the numerous flowers are small and inconspicuous, the foliage is an attractive silvery grey. The leaves complement other brightly colored flowers in the garden and in flower arrangements, too. This plant’s attractiveness is enhanced by the beautiful butterflies and other pollinating insects that visit.

Video © Barb Elliot. Pollinators visiting Short-toothed Mountain Mint. To see pollinator activity, click on symbol in lower right for full-screen view. Then click play symbol in lower left. May take several seconds to load. Turn on speakers for audio.

Plant these and other Backyards for Nature Prime Plants, and nature will flourish abundantly in your yard.

Milkweeds for Monarchs – 2014

Posted on April 7, 2014 by barb

By Barb Elliot

“The lowest numbers of Monarchs ever recorded”

“Monarch migration at risk of disappearing”

This is the devastating news about Monarchs over-wintering in Mexico. These Monarchs migrated last fall from eastern portions of the U.S. and Canada to reach their historic Mexican wintering grounds. Each year scientists count the number of acres of trees where the Monarchs cluster during their winter stay in Mexico. This winter Monarchs covered just 1.7 acres — a significant decline from the previous low of 2.9 acres.

Male Monarch in Barb's yard. Photo © Barb Elliot

Loss of milkweed is the primary reason for the steep decline in Monarch numbers. Milkweeds are the only plant Monarch caterpillars can eat. Millions of acres of milkweed habitat have disappeared in the mid-west due to the use of genetically modified (GMO) corn and soy crops. Farmers spray their fields with Roundup, and the crops survive. However, this herbicide kills the other plants like milkweed that previously grew in and around crops. Since these Roundup Ready crops came into use over the last 15 years, almost 80% of milkweeds in the mid-west have disappeared. Monarch population decreases have correlated in lock step with the loss of milkweed. Milkweed habitat is also lost due to development and mowing of roadsides. Extreme weather over the past few years in Mexico, the U.S. and Canada has also contributed to Monarch losses. Cold snaps, heat waves, droughts and heavy rains have also taken a toll on the Monarchs and milkweeds.

Monarch laying egg on Butterfly Milkweed. Photo @ Barb Elliot.

As a result, last summer we Monarch-lovers saw few, if any, Monarchs. With these steep declines, we’ll surely see even fewer this summer. However, Monarch experts say that the Monarch population can bounce back – probably not to the high levels of the 1990s, but to a lower “new normal”. To improve their numbers, Monarchs need MORE milkweed.

That’s where we come in. We Monarch-lovers must plant more milkweeds this year. The Monarchs, fewer in numbers now, will need quantities of milkweeds to find the plants easily and lay their eggs. Also, milkweeds are very important plants in the web of life and provide high quality nectar for a variety of other important pollinators.

Monarch caterpillar on Barb's Swamp Milkweed. Photo © Barb Elliot.

Let’s keep the welcome mat out for Monarchs! To that end, we are selling Butterfly Milkweed and Swamp Milkweed this year for only $2 a plant. Plant some milkweeds to help the Monarchs. If you already have some, plant even more! Plant them in containers, too. Talk to family, friends, and neighbors about the need. Get permission to plant them at a community park, church, business, roadway, or open space, too.

Now is the time for YOU to help the beautiful Monarchs survive for generations to come.

Milkweed Sale Information

Cost: $2 per plant. Cash only. Money collected above our actual costs will be donated to Monarch Joint Venture, a partnership of organizations working to conserve the monarch migration.

Plants Description: Plants are landscape plugs with well-developed (about 5”) root systems. When in bloom, they look like this:

Butterfly Milkweed Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) (Asclepias incarnata)

Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) Photo © Barb Elliot. Click to enlarge.

Minimum Order: 5 plants of one species only. That is, 5 Butterfly Milkweed or 5 Swamp Milkweed. Not 3 of one species and 2 of the other.

Number of Plants: Plants will be sold in multiples of 5 per species only, e.g. 10, 15, 30

Maximum Order: None. However, supplies depend on availability from our wholesaler. Plants will be reserved based on the order in which orders are received.

Order Deadline: Orders must be received no later than April 30, 2014..

Pickup Date & Time: Saturday, May 31^st, 2014 – 10 AM to 3 PM. Sorry, no alternate pickup times can be arranged.

Pickup Location: Roberts Elementary School, 889 Croton Rd, Wayne, PA 19087 For Directions, click here

General Planting Recommendations:
1. Plant in clusters, preferably at least 5 plants per cluster to attract passing Monarchs.
2. Plant 12” apart.
3. For more detailed planting instructions and other ways to help Monarchs, click title: Planting and Caring for Your Milkweeds.*

If you have any problems ordering or questions, send an email to info@backyardsfornature.org

Order Confirmation: You will receive a confirmation email within 7 days from info@backyardsfornature.org. Please set your email filter to accept email from this address. If you do not get a confirmation email within 7 days, send an email to: info@backyardsfornature.org

Pollinators Need Our Help!

Posted on March 24, 2014 by barb

By Barb Elliot

The earliest spring flowers will soon emerge. In my garden I’ll admire the delicate white petals of Bloodroot, the first to bloom. Soon I’ll enjoy the blue bell-like flowers of Jacob’s Ladder, the bright yellow of Golden Ragwort, and striking red blooms of Wild Columbine. The flowers are charming, but I will be more captivated by their insect visitors. Small bees and flies will fly from blossom to blossom. Working intently, they will stop briefly to feed and gather nectar and pollen. These will be the first pollinators of the year.

Skipper sipping nectar from Upland Ironweed. @ Barb Elliot

As spring and summer progress, pollinators will visit the succession of blooms on my native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Bees, butterflies, flies, beetles, and wasps will be at work. I’ll watch each butterfly unfurl its straw-like proboscis to daintily probe flower heads and sip nectar. Yellow pollen grains will dot the heads and bodies of bees and flies. Female bees will sport saddlebag-like pollen baskets on their hind legs. The undersides of leafcutter bees’ abdomens will be golden from pollen grains stored on special hairs.

Bumble Bee with pollen baskets. Photo by Beatriz Moisset. Wikimedia Creative Commons.

I’ll notice the size, shape, and tongue lengths of pollinators – characteristics that enable some to better exploit different shaped flowers than others. Iridescent green sweat bees will glisten in the sunlight as they feed on nectar. The strikingly-marked Locust Borer Beetle will catch my attention as it methodically forages for pollen on my goldenrods. I’ll marvel at how close I can get to colorful wasps as they busily collect nectar. Hover flies will hang suspended in air as they take a break from feeding on nectar and pollen. After dark, with my flashlight, I’ll find moths flying from flower to flower, performing nighttime pollination.

Locust Borer Beetle on goldenrod. Wikimedia Creative Commons photo.

My flowering plants put on their royal finery to entice these pollinators, not me. Their showy colors and patterns advertise and guide the pollinators to the plants’ nectar and pollen. The plants must rely on the pollinators to transport pollen among different flowers of the same species. This cross-pollination enables plants to produce the seeds and fruit needed for reproduction. Well-pollinated plants bear more fruit, produce genetically diverse seed, and are healthier. For the pollinators the nectar provides carbohydrates for energy. The pollen supplies them and their offspring with protein, vitamins, minerals, fats, and starches.

Pollinators play essential roles in our ecosystems. Seventy-five percent of the world’s plants require pollinators to produce seed or fruit. One-third of our food supply comes from pollinator-reliant plants. Birds and other wildlife in my yard and the world over eat

Green Sweat Bee. Photo by Beatriz Moisset on Wikimedia Creative Comoons.

the seeds and fruits produced by pollinator-dependent plants. Pollinators themselves are food for birds and other animals, including insects. A diverse population of pollinators is critical to the web of life.

Unfortunately, many pollinators are in decline. Some are threatened with extinction. Our most beloved pollinator, the Monarch butterfly, is in serious trouble. The eastern U.S. population crashed in 2013, and the smallest number on record over-wintered in Mexico this year. Not only Monarchs but other pollinator populations, including bees, our most prolific pollinators, are in trouble, too. The effects of Colony Collapse Disorder on non-native honeybee populations are well known. However, many of our 4,000 U.S. native bee species, key pollinators of both

Bumble bee with tongue extended on Mountain Mint. Photo @ Barb Elliot.

native plants and crops, are also at risk. Bumble bees seem particularly hard hit, with about half of our 47 U.S. species in decline. Some are in danger of extinction. Less studied pollinators like beetles, wasps, and moths are likely declining as well.

Loss of good foraging and nesting habitat is the primary cause for pollinator declines. Pesticides and introduced parasites add to the toll. Many experts believe neonicotinoid insecticides pose a particular threat to bees and other pollinators. Those that forage on treated plants become weak or die. “Neonics” and other systemic pesticides are taken up through a plant’s roots and travel to all parts of the plant, including its nectar and pollen. Last June, 50,000 bumble bees foraging on flowering trees at a single location in Oregon were killed after the trees were sprayed with a neonicotenoid. Neonics are present in a variety of insecticide brands commonly sold to gardeners. They are also used in nurseries that raise plants. In fact, some plants sold as bee-attractants contain neonicotenoids.

Wasp on Mountain Mint. @ Barb Elliot

Despite all the threats, we gardeners can help sustain pollinator populations in our area. (See table below.) Some gardeners like to attract butterflies, but balk at inviting moths, bees, beetles, flies, and wasps. However, these insects have important roles to play in the web of life and are generally harmless to gardeners. Native bees are unaggressive and rarely sting. Even wasps are docile when foraging on flowers, although they may forcefully defend a nest. By incorporating a variety of native plants in our yards, our most important conservation action, we will attract pollinators that are also predators and keep insect populations in check. Various beetles, flies, and wasps prey on aphids and other insect pests. By growing a diversity of native plants (see plant list below), we will encourage a healthy balance of insects in our gardens.

Hover Fly on Snakeroot. @ Barb Elliot

I hope the plight of the Monarch butterfly will compel us to action. We must help not just the Monarchs* but the less charismatic butterfly, bee, fly, wasp, beetle, and moth pollinators as well. For too long, we have ignored pollinators or treated them as pests to be destroyed. We have gardened for aesthetics and our enjoyment without considering nature. These beneficial creatures are crucial players in the web of life in our own gardens and beyond. We can make a difference for them. We and our gardens will benefit.

*Please note that we will be selling milkweed plants for Monarchs again this year! Stay tuned for an upcoming post about Monarchs and details of the milkweed sale.

How to Help Pollinators
Provide Food
Plant:	¨ A variety of nectar- and pollen-rich native plants. Strive for 8 or more species. ¨ Perennials in clusters, preferably 5 or more of a single species, so plants are easily found. ¨ For a succession of blooms from early spring through late fall. ¨ Natives with different flower shapes for pollinators or varied sizes, shapes, and tongue lengths. ¨ Host plants for butterflies and moths.
Buy plants at local native plant retailers or where sellers identify whether plants are pre-treated with systemic pesticides such as neonicotinoids. Remove invasive plants so they crowd out natives
Provide nesting and overwintering sites
Leave:	¨ Areas of bare soil in sunny, well-drained spots. ¨ Stumps, logs on the ground, dead branches and trees. ¨ Leaf litter for over-wintering butterflies, moths, beetles and their larvae or pupae ¨ Stems of perennials standing from fall through late winter
Provide artificial nest sites, e.g., a wooden bee block or a bundle of stems or paper straws. Every 2 years replace or clean with a 3:1 water-bleach solution. Click here for more info. Build a “pollinator condo”. Click here for “how to info” or here for inspirational examples.
Provide water
Add a shallow dish with sloped sides for easy entry and exit Keep an area of soil moist or muddy for butterflies and other pollinators that forage for minerals and salts in soil
Prevent pesticide poisoning
Don’t use pesticides, but especially avoid neonicotinoids. Click here for a list of common brands containing neonics. Don’t apply herbicides or fungicides to lawn or beds with nest sites or pollinator plants
Other Ways to Help Pollinators
Make a commitment to protect pollinators by getting your yard certified as a pollinator habitat and posting a sign. See The Xerces Society’s “Bring Back the Pollinators” campaign Become a citizen scientist to help scientists track pollinator populations, such as by reporting sightings of bumble bees to Bumble Bee Watch or other species to Project Noah

Recommended Native Plants for Pollinators by Bloom Period
Common Name	Botanical Name	Flower Color	Bloom Period^	Height	Soil	Exposure	Notes
Perennials
Bloodroot	Sanguinaria canadensis	White	April	6-8”	Dry to moist	Part shade to shade
Golden Ragwort	Packera aurea	Yellow	April-May	1-2’	Moist to wet	Part shade to shade	Host plant. Deer resistant
Jacob’s Ladder	Polemonium reptans	Blue	April-May	8-15”	Moist	Part shade to shade	Deer resistant
Wild Geraniium	Geranium maculatum	Pink – purple	April-May	1-3’	Moist to dry	Part sun to shade	Host plant. Deer resistant
False Solomon’s Seal	Maianthemum racemosum	White-cream	May	12-24”	Moist to dry	Part shade to shade
Smooth Solomon’s Seal	Polygonatum biflorum	White -light yellow	May-June	2-4’	Moist to dry	Part sun	Deer resistant
Wild Columbine	Aquilegia canadensis	Red	May-June	1-3’	Moist to average	Part sun to shade	Deer resistant
Beardtongue	Penstemon digitalis	White	June-July	2-3’	Dry to moist	Sun to part shade	Deer resistant
Bee Balm	Monarda didyma	Red	June-August	3-4’	Moist to dry	Sun to part shade	Deer resistant
Butterfly Milkweed	Asclepia tuberosa	Orange	June-August	1-2’	Dry to moist	Sun	Host plant for Monarch, others. Deer resistant
Nodding Onion	Allium cernuum	Pale -dark pink	July	1-2’	Dry to moist	Sun	Deer resistant
Purple Coneflower	Echinacea purpurea	Purplish pink	July	3-4’	Moist to dry	Sun to part sun
Swamp Milkweed	Asclepias incarnata	Light – dark pink	July	3-5’	Moist to wet	Sun to part sun	Host plant – Monarch butterfly; deer resistant
Blazing Star	Liatris spicata	Purple	July-August	2-4’	Moist	Sun
Culver’s Root	Veronicastrum virginicum	White	July-August	3-5’	Moist	Sun to part shade
Joe Pye Weed	Eutrochium maculatum; E. fistulosum	Pink	July-August	4-7’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade	Host plant. Deer resistant
Short-toothed Mountain Mint	Pycnanthemum mutucum	White	July-August	2-3’	Moist	Sun to part shade	Deer resistant
White Turtlehead	Chelone glabra	White	July-August	2-4’	Moist to wet	Sun to part sun
Wild Bergamot	Monarda fistulosa	Pink	July-August	2-4’	Moist to dry	Sun to part sun	Host plant. Deer resistant
Common Boneset	Eupatorium perfoliatum	White	July-September	2-4’	Moist to wet	Sun	Host plant
Cup Plant	Silphium perfoliatum	Yellow	July- September	4-8’	Moist to wet	Sun	Host plant
Fragrant Hyssop	Agastache foeniculum	Blue-violet	July-September	3-5’	Moist to dry	Sun to part sun	Deer resistant
False Sunflower	Heliopsis helianthoides	Yellow	July-September	3-5’	Moist to dry	Sun to part sun
Garden Phlox	Phlox paniculata	Pink/white/ lavender	July-September	2-6’	Moist	Sun to part shade
Goldenrod -Stiff	Solidago rigida	Yellow	July-Sept	3-5’	Dry to moist	Sun to part sun	Host plant. Deer resistant
Great Blue Lobelia	Lobelia siphilitica	Blue	August	1-3’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade
Cutleaf/ Green-headed Coneflower	Rudbeckia laciniata	Yellow	August-September	3-6’	Moist	Sun to part sun
New England Aster	Symphotrichum novae-angliae	Pink -purple	August-September	2-5’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade	Host plant
Goldenrod – Zigzag	Solidago flexicaulis	Yellow	August-October	1-3’	Dry to moist	Part shade to shade	Host plant. Deer resistant
New York Ironweed	Vernonia noveboracensis	Magenta	August-October	3-6’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade
Obedient Plant	Physostegia virginiana	Pink	August-October	2-5’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade
Mistflower or Hardy Ageratum	Conoclinum coelestinum	Blue	September-October	1-3’	Moist to wet	Sun to part shade	Deer resistant
Vines
Virgin’s Bower (a magnet for daytime species & moths at night)	Clematis virginiana	White	August-September	To 10’	Moist	Sun to part shade	May spread. Deer resistant
Trees and Shrubs
Pussy Willow	Salix discolor	Silvery gray	March	20-35’	Sun	Wet to moist
Serviceberry	Amelanchier canadensis; A. laevis	White	April	6-20’	Sun to part shade	Dry to moist
Highbush Blueberry	Vaccinium corymbosum	White – pink	April-May	6-12’	Sun to shade	Wet to dry, acid
Redbud	Cercis canadensis	Pink – lavender	April-May	20-30’	Sun to part shade	Moist to wet	Deer resistant
Black Cherry	Prunus serotina	White	May-June	50-75’	Sun to part shade	Moist
Sweetbay Magnolia	Magnolia virginiana	Creamy white	May-June	10-20’	Sun to part shade	Moist to wet	Deer resistant
Black Gum	Nyssa sylvatica	Green	June	30-50’	Sun to part shade	Moist to wet	Deer resistant
Tulip Tree	Liriodendron tulipifera	Yellow-green & orange	June	75-100’	Sun to part shade	Moist to average
Basswood	Tilia americana	Pale yellowish	Late June-early July	75-100’	Full sun to light shade	Moist
Buttonbush	Cephalanthus occidentalis	Creamy white	July-August	6-12’	Sun	Wet to moist

By Edie Parnum

By Barb Elliot

Milkweed Sale Information

How to Help Pollinators

Provide Food

Plant:

¨ A variety of nectar- and pollen-rich native plants. Strive for 8 or more species.

¨ Perennials in clusters, preferably 5 or more of a single species, so plants are easily found.

¨ For a succession of blooms from early spring through late fall.

¨ Natives with different flower shapes for pollinators or varied sizes, shapes, and tongue lengths.

¨ Host plants for butterflies and moths.

Buy plants at local native plant retailers or where sellers identify whether plants are pre-treated with systemic pesticides such as neonicotinoids.

Remove invasive plants so they crowd out natives

Provide nesting and overwintering sites

Leave:

¨ Areas of bare soil in sunny, well-drained spots.

¨ Stumps, logs on the ground, dead branches and trees.

¨ Leaf litter for over-wintering butterflies, moths, beetles and their larvae or pupae

¨ Stems of perennials standing from fall through late winter

Provide artificial nest sites, e.g., a wooden bee block or a bundle of stems or paper straws. Every 2 years replace or clean with a 3:1 water-bleach solution. Click here for more info.

Build a “pollinator condo”. Click here for “how to info” or here for inspirational examples.

Provide water

Add a shallow dish with sloped sides for easy entry and exit

Keep an area of soil moist or muddy for butterflies and other pollinators that forage for minerals and salts in soil

Prevent pesticide poisoning

Don’t use pesticides, but especially avoid neonicotinoids. Click here for a list of common brands containing neonics.

Don’t apply herbicides or fungicides to lawn or beds with nest sites or pollinator plants

Other Ways to Help Pollinators

Make a commitment to protect pollinators by getting your yard certified as a pollinator habitat and posting a sign. See The Xerces Society’s “Bring Back the Pollinators” campaign

Become a citizen scientist to help scientists track pollinator populations, such as by reporting sightings of bumble bees to Bumble Bee Watch or other species to Project Noah

Bloodroot

Sanguinaria canadensis

White

April

6-8”

Dry to moist

Part shade to shade

Golden Ragwort

Packera aurea

Yellow

April-May

1-2’

Moist to wet

Part shade to shade

Host plant. Deer resistant

Jacob’s Ladder

Polemonium reptans

Blue

April-May

8-15”

Moist

Part shade to shade

Deer resistant

Wild Geraniium

Geranium maculatum

Pink – purple

April-May

1-3’

Moist to dry

Part sun to shade

Host plant. Deer resistant

False Solomon’s Seal

Maianthemum racemosum

White-cream

May

12-24”

Moist to dry

Part shade to shade

Smooth Solomon’s Seal

Polygonatum biflorum

White -light yellow

May-June

2-4’

Moist to dry

Part sun

Deer resistant

Wild Columbine

Aquilegia canadensis

Red

May-June